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Dancer from Moshoeshoe Day - March 11th |
Dear Lovely Friends and Family,
Whew! 5 months and counting left of our
service and we’ve both been in a whirlwind. Things are starting to feel more
and more bittersweet as we experience the final portion of our service whizzing
by.
It is harvest season in Lesotho, hot
days with cool nights in the highlands. Basotho are starting to talk about
winter and they are cursing the Cosmos (flowers) as they take over the fields.
We’ve had good heat and rain this year, but the storms have also brought
several hail storms, yet again reducing yield for the subsistence farmers,
not-even eking out a living on the rocky, terraced fields of the highlands.
Actually, during one of the storms, lightening killed a welder here in town
whose shop is near the bakery. Another volunteer lost her host brother to a
lightening strike! It is a scarily common occurrence and the Basotho say that
they can harness the lightening, so the deaths are said to be black magic/muti
done by one to another, they laugh at us though, and say that we can’t because
we’re not Basotho.
Otherwise we’ve been quite busy, mostly
pushing forward the projects that we’ve had ongoing. Shane finally got his (his
group’s) martial arts mats – it was still an ordeal, after 7 months and them
going from Cape Town, to Jo’Berg to Durban and finally
getting dropped at the town across the border, they even encountered challenges
bringing such a big shipment across the border. Nevertheless the mats are here
and they are all very excited/triumphant – one downside is that they didn’t
work out a secure storage place, so we now have about 50 mats of 1 square meter
each, taking over our 1 roomed house.
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What they have been training on.... |
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His and Hers excercise mats |
Shane is also in the thick of implementing
the building of an energy efficient conference center at Snake Park
with Ntate Nkhooa, they just got their funds from their Global Environmental
Fund proposal and that has been pretty exciting.
He also spent quite a bit of last week in
Maseru with the Face Your Fear Self-Defense Academy group at the National
Gender Links Summit, they got to present and were nominated for an award based
on their Fight Like a Girl Rape Escape training work, but the judges selected
another candidate instead, in large part because she was female. His massage
students have hit a benchmark as well, they now know how to give a full body
Swedish massage (being a seasoned massage-receiving veteran, I have enjoyed
being a part of their training as well!)
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Gender Summit |
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The Lovely Massage Ladies... and "Ntate David" the anatomical man - handmade with markers and clear tape by Shane |
As for me, I had to go to Maseru a few weeks back for another, medical
issue – joy! As much as I dislike going to the capital city, it was a nice
opportunity to have lunch with a couple neat gals in Maseru, use faster internet and wander
aimlessly around the mall for a while – and have a chocolate espresso
milkshake! Last week was a busy one, with another successful Nutrition Corner –
one of my neighbors taught me how to cook one version of traditional Basotho
bread that normally uses cornmeal, but we substituted the fortified Corn-Soya
blend that is distributed as food aid by WFP, so that is what we cooked last
week for Nutrition Corner. It was well received by both mothers and babies
(over 6 months, of course!) because they often look at this unfamiliar food and
don’t know what to do with it. ‘M’e MaTumelo at the bakery now has her own
business cards that we made together, she was able to print and laminate them
and she’s really excited about them. We are also starting to do the steps of a
feasibility study, which is a great learning experience for both of us. Last
Friday, we had our 5th market day, this month was a success because
we had more of a balance of vendors and customers and one of my local
counterpart’s colleagues from the Basotho Enterprises Development Corporation
came to check out our market and report back to the national office. It was
also great to see all of the fresh vegetable and especially peaches both dried
and fresh. I actually have had a chance to can 11 jars of peach sauce this
year! We have also really been enjoying spending time with our Welsh neighbors
– all teachers who arrived in January. They are also enjoying my yoga class and
we, along with my committed Basotho students, had 3 yoga classes last week.
Visiting with ‘M’e Magdelena this weekend, I discovered that the stone water
tank we started last year around this time has finally been completely
constructed! I am hoping that this will increase the water security of the
Infirmary and its agricultural projects for years to come. One of the recent
joys that I’ve adopted, is going and reading books, with one of the Welsh
teachers to our local Preschool, the kids are really adorable and get really
excited when we show up, it is a blast sharing simple classics with them, like
Dr Suess. The Saturday, kids library program is still going and last Saturday,
we read The Land Before Time and made drawings from the book and then I cut the
drawings into puzzles for the kids to put back together. I hope that I’m
successfully able to impart my love of reading to at least a few young people
with these activities. The beekeeping group is at a bit of a standstill, after
writing their constitution, and a business plan, they are waiting to get the
registration certificate – its been a bit of a wait because, apparently the
Cooperative office in Maseru is out of the paper to print the certificates on.
We also got a proposal submitted to World Vision to see if they are willing to
give them some booster capital for more equipment, so we are waiting to hear
about that as well. So, we are currently re-grouping and rethinking the action
plan.
In other, non-project news, we have made
quick friends with our 3 Welsh neighbors. There have also been some
self-funded, non-affiliated Canadian volunteers in our neighborhood for the
last month or so. We decided it was time to organize a BBQ at Snake Park
for all of us PCVs, Welsh and Canadians to get together and socialize, so we
brought not only meat, potato salad and beer but also the makings for S’mores
–which the Welsh had never had before. Needless to say, they enjoyed them! A
few Basotho joined us, and they laughed at the idea of even roasting
marshmallows –until they tried them! It has been really fun to be exposed to so
many other people and cultures since we’ve been here – mostly, our immersion in
Basotho culture, but the chance to meet people from other places has also been
a highlight of our service.
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Lebohang (PCV Tara's fiancee) Alyssia and the Welsh Sharon and Canadian Sharon |
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Welsh Anna, first S'more bite |
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The Bo Ntate cooking the meat |
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Ntate Nkhooa and Alyssia experiencing S'mores for the first time - God Bless America:-) |
We got to attend the annual Moshoeshoe Day
celebration in the district on March 11. Last year, it was one of the coolest
things we did, with all of the school children competing in different
traditional dance categories. The boys mainly do Mohobelo and Ntlamo and the
girls do Moqoqopelo and Mokhibo. It’s really quite a fun event, with a
carnival-like atmosphere, lots of traditional dress, great dancing and lots of
cheering and ululating.
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Ice Cream and Waffles for sale |
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This guy said his outfit was made by his grandfather, from miscellaneous animal hides including rabbit and jackal |
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Mohobelo |
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Mokhibo |
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Mokhibo |
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Ntlamo |
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Waiting her turn |
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Ready to win! |
Many of you know that as we have been looking
ahead to what’s in store for us after Peace Corps, a Master’s Degree in
Sustainable Agriculture has been in my sights. After applying to several
schools and pestering countless scientists and program administrators at
schools around the country, even starting in 2010, I got an offer that I’m
really excited about at Washington
State. The offer is to
get an MS in Soil Science working on a very interesting sounding soil
acidification project. Shane and I both really like this option, the program
looks like a really good fit for me, there are some good options for Shane as
well, the area looks beautiful and is in a part of the country that we love,
and we will not be super-far from home – yay!
Another upcoming thing that we are really
excited about is my Dad’s visit, he will be arriving on Wednesday and we will
be meeting him outside of Kruger Park to kick off our 20 day, eastern South
Africa and Swaziland tour, hopefully filled with the Big 5, hiking,
beach/snorkeling and some great time together! We’re all excited! This means
that I probably won’t be posting again for a few weeks, but when I do it will
hopefully be with tons of great photos of a different, lion and elephant ridden
Africa than what we get here in Lesotho.
This will likely be our last holiday during Peace Corps because the last three
months we are committed to spend wrapping up our projects and we aren’t allowed
to take leave.
I think that pretty much wraps up our
happenings here for now. I am currently reading Fierce Conversations by Susan
Scott and Shane is reading Farewell My Subaru by Doug Fine. We’ve been a bit
slower on our reading though since we’ve discovered the joy of watching the
show Bones on our laptop – we are officially much more current on our American
(and now even British TV) than we’ve ever been! Unfortunately, my cooking has
been decidedly uninspired lately, though a couple of weeks ago I made
chocolate, chocolate cookies with real butter that Shane brought back across
the border – they were a pretty amazing treat from the Cook’s Illustrated
cookbook. We are looking forward to self-catering in South Africa, going into real
grocery stores and eating dairy like it is no big deal! What’s not to love
about real butter and hot showers!
On that note, we send all our best to our
readers from across the ocean – until next time…
Carol and Shane
I read Farewell My Subaru! It was a fun book, really easy to read.
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